Raspberries

Raspberries are one of those fruits that make you fall in love at first taste. Bursting with flavour, their sweetness is balanced by just the right amount of tang. Unfortunately my bank account doesn’t agree with this love affair and I have found I need to either grow my own or heavily reduce my consumption.

The Beauty of the Raspberry Bush

Raspberry plants (Rubus idaeus) are hardy perennials that send up fresh canes each year, making them a productive and surprisingly low-maintenance choice for home gardeners. Raspberry ‘Heritage’, (Rubus idaeus x Rubus hybrids), is popular variety for Queensland gardens as it is well suited to our long hot summers and mild autumns. They also have the ability to bear fruit twice a year, once on first-year canes (primocanes) and again on second-year canes (floricanes). This dual fruiting potential is especially valuable in Ipswich, where the weather can be unpredictable. Some years reward us with two abundant harvests, others with just one, and occasionally, none at all. But with Heritage raspberries, there’s always the hope of at least one fruitful season.

Raspberries are self-pollinating, so a single plant is all you need for a plentiful harvest. Their delicate white flowers are a magnet for bees and other beneficial insects. So why isn’t everyone growing these amazing plants? One word: thorns. Raspberry canes are covered in small, prickly thorns that can make harvesting and maintenance a bit of a challenge. While the reward of fresh, juicy berries is worth the effort, it’s best to approach with gloves and a bit of caution to avoid the sting

A Nutritional Powerhouse

Raspberries aren’t just delicious—they’re incredibly nutritious. Packed with dietary fibre, they support digestion and can help maintain healthy cholesterol levels. They’re also rich in vitamins C and K, manganese, and antioxidants, which help combat free radicals and support overall well-being.

It’s no wonder raspberries are often called a superfood!

Who Can Grow Raspberries?

If you’re in Ipswich, good news: raspberries can thrive here with the right care. While they prefer a mild climate, Heritage raspberries are resilient and adapt well to our warmer weather. They grow best in a sunny position with some afternoon shade to protect them from the harsh summer heat.

Raspberry plants are perfect for smaller gardens, as they can be trained on trellises to save space. They’re also happy in pots, provided you use a large container with premium potting mix.

Planting and Pruning Tips

Raspberries are happiest in fertile, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH of 6.0–6.5. Prepare the garden with garden soil and/or compost before planting. If you’re planting in a pot, choose a high-quality mix like Searles Platinum Potting Mix.

Pruning is where raspberries truly shine. Heritage raspberries are incredibly forgiving:

• After the autumn harvest, cut all canes that have fruited back to the base. This encourages fresh growth.

• For a second summer harvest, leave the primocanes (first-year canes) intact after their autumn fruiting, as they’ll bear again next season.

• Always remove weak, dead, or overcrowded canes to promote air circulation and reduce disease risks.

Sharp tools are a must when pruning, as raspberries can gum up pruners with their sap. Clean tools regularly to keep them in top condition.

Feeding and Caring for Raspberries

Raspberry bushes are heavy feeders, so they’ll thrive with regular fertilising. Apply Organic Link fertiliser every 2–3 months to keep plants strong and productive. During the growing season, a fortnightly liquid feed with Triple Boost or a potassium-rich fertiliser will encourage abundant fruiting.

Mulching is another key to success. Organic mulch like sugar cane keeps roots cool, conserves moisture, and suppresses weeds. Water deeply and consistently, especially in the warmer months, as raspberries have shallow roots and can dry out quickly.

Pests that affect Raspberries

Raspberries are a joy to grow, but pests can occasionally try to steal the spotlight. Common culprits include fruit fly, aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, beetles, and of course, birds.

To keep your raspberries thriving:

• Spray neem oil regularly or use other organic sprays to deter pests.

• Hang fruit fly traps near your plants to catch those troublesome invaders.

• Protect with netting to keep birds and larger pests at bay.

With a little attention and care, you can enjoy your raspberries pest-free!

Diseases and Problems that affect Raspberries

While raspberries are generally hardy, they can occasionally face a range of diseases and problems when grown in South East Queensland. Here's how to identify and manage these issues:

Diseases

• Powdery Mildew: Ensure good airflow around the plants and avoid overhead watering. Apply sulphur-based sprays or organic fungicides (like eco-fungicide) to manage outbreaks.

• Botrytis (Grey Mould): Promptly remove affected fruit, thin canes to improve ventilation, and apply copper fungicide during periods of high humidity.

• Cane Blight: Prune out damaged or diseased canes using clean, sharp tools to prevent the disease from spreading.

• Root Rot: Plant in well-drained soil or raised beds, and avoid overwatering to reduce the risk of waterlogging.

Common Problems

• Sunburn: Leaves and fruit may scorch in Ipswich's intense summer heat. Use shade cloth or strategic planting to provide afternoon shade during heatwaves.

• Poor Fruit Set: Inadequate feeding or incorrect pruning can lead to fewer berries. Fertilise regularly with a balanced feed like Organic Link, Triple Boost and Silica and Potash and prune correctly to promote healthy growth.

• Overcrowding: Dense canes restrict airflow, increasing the risk of disease. Thin out canes annually, retaining only the strongest to ensure good ventilation.

• Dry Soil: Raspberries have shallow roots that struggle in dry periods. Water deeply and consistently, especially during hot or windy weather. Apply organic mulches, such as sugar cane, to retain soil moisture and reduce evaporation.

By staying proactive and providing the right care, you can minimise these challenges and enjoy a thriving raspberry crop in your garden!

What Seed Do I Buy

When we bought Trevallan nearly 24 years ago our experience with seeds was minimal.

My grandfather always reused his own seed and that was considered normal.

When we bought Trevallan we had three different seed companies in stock and within a few short months most of our complaints came about due to seed issues.

So started a research project into something entirely new for us, using customer recommendations and my grandfather as our test subject!

Very quickly we converted to Eden Seeds.

Very quickly our seed problems diminished and demand for seeds grew until now where we have the Great Seed Wall!

So what were our problems with some of the seeds we used to stock.

• Low germination rates (by experienced growers)

• What grew wasn’t exactly the same as what it was marked as

• Problems with growing past a certain point

• Major problem was not being able to collect seed reliably for future cropping. This was something my grandfather always did. It was very important

We discovered Eden Seeds. Eden Seeds states “aim is to distribute old traditional open pollinated varieties of vegetable seed, preferably old Australian varieties and organically or bio-dynamically grown where possible. We believe they are more nutritious and better tasting, hardy and easier to grow for the home gardener. Old varieties produce over an extended period. Home gardeners obtain relaxation, enjoyment and quality from a most rewarding hobby. Our seeds are the old traditional open pollinated non-hybrid varieties and have no chemical treatment, and no genetic engineering.”

This sounded great to me but first I needed to understand what that all meant!

Hybrid Seeds

Hybrid seeds are produced through careful pollination of two specific varieties by human intervention. Normally, this highly selective plant breeding is done to bring together two traits in each of the chosen varieties so that the resulting seed has both of the traits
An example may be a cabbage that grows huge but is susceptible to disease. A smaller-growing cabbage is very disease resistant. They combine the two and boom a large cabbage head that is disease resistant. Usually, you can’t reseed these plants as the seeds may not contain the characteristics of the hybrid plant.

Positive of Hybrid Seeds Hybrid seeds are believed to have better disease resistance and perform better in terms of more fruits, flowers and vegetables produced.

Negative of Hybrid Seeds Hybrid seeds tend to be more expensive to buy due to the specialized pollination process and the seeds you collect from them will not grow the same plant next year and, in some cases, have been bred so that no plant at all can grow from the seeds of a hybrid plant.

Non-Hybrid

Non-hybrid seeds, or open-pollination seeds, are naturally pollinated naturally (bird, insect, wind). They come in a wealth of different varieties and produce seeds that grow into plants with similar characteristics as the original plant. Over successive generations, non-hybrid plants may also adapt to local growing conditions, making them stronger plants, and ultimately less susceptible to local pests and disease.

Using non-hybrid seeds has another advantage: you’re helping preserve the biodiversity of our food supply. Many of the rarer “heirloom” and “heritage” seed varieties would be extinct were it not for the efforts of non-hybrid gardeners and farmers

Genetically modified organisms (GMO)

GMO seeds are produced by genetic engineering, altering the genetic material of an organism. This is different from hybrid seeds that are produced by cross-breeding of two varieties through artificial mating

 Organic vs Non Organic

You can buy Organic hybrid seeds and organic non hybrid seeds You can not buy organic GMO seeds. Many people tell me that they buy their fruit and vegetables organically so they just reseed their garden from that. You can buy hybrid organic vegetables and seed. This means while your seed is organic your vegetables may not regrow true to the plant you purchased.

Australian Organic Laws are very strict, always look for the Australian Organic Certification stamp when buying organic products. In Australia, the Australian Certified Organic (ACO) standards require organic seed producers to use organic practices and to undergo an annual certification process. The certification process for organic seeds involves ensuring the land is free from synthetic chemicals, using organic methods for seed production, and processing the seeds without synthetic chemicals.

No Chemical Treatment

Untreated seed is classed as ‘clean’ seed and has not been treated using any chemical, biological, or physical method. While untreated seed can be grown under organic conditions, the seed crop was not grown under Certified Organic Conditions. As the Certification process can be lengthy and costly many farmers choose the no chemical treatment option. Untreated seed is a popular alternative to organic seed.

Bio-dynamic

Bio-dynamic seed crops are grown in living soil within a diverse thriving ecosystem. Not a sterile environment such as under growing houses or single crop acres. Seed produced from this growing environment is bred to thrive in organic/bio-dynamic growing conditions.

Best Seed?

A lot of information to cover there but as you can see buying open pollinated, no chemical treatment, bio dynamic seeds is dare I say it ‘the best option’ for starting your thriving vegetable garden.

Eden Seeds

We have chosen Eden Seeds as they are a great Australian company with an ethos we align with. They stock both Organic and no chemical treatment, Bio dynamic seeds and we try to stock a good range of both. Our Great Wall of Seeds is constantly changing and evolving to supply you with not only the best seed but the best diversification so we all aren’t stuck growing just beans!

Choosing what seed to grow… Well that is another story!

One Potato, Two Potato, Three Potato

The first time I heard the words seed potato I imagined a packet of seeds looking somewhat like bean seeds! How wrong I was.  Seed Potatoes are what you use to grow potatoes and look like baby potatoes.  About 1kg of certified seed should produce about 10kgs of potato.

Woolworths sells potatoes for around $1kg sometimes, why am should I grow them myself?

Potatoes rank among the most contaminated with pesticides and fungicides. Twenty-nine pesticides are commonly used, and 79% of potatoes tested exceed safe levels of multiple pesticides (according to research done by FDA and USDA). Now I don't know about you but I used to use potatoes all the time in cooking. So this little piece of information didn't sit terribly well with me. If I started buying organic potatoes it would cost me upwards of $6kg. So growing potatoes seems like a good idea.

Why should I buy certified seed potato, why can’t I just plant the sprouts that grow from my potatoes from the grocery store?

Firstly potatoes are sprayed with growth inhibitors to stop them from sprouting in shops? This means that when they do finally sprout the growth may be inhibited. You may get weak growth, deformed growth or a plant more susceptible to insect and fungus attack.

Potato plants can carry many potato diseases: bacterial, viral, and fungal; and some of these are passed on through potato tubers. Plant viral infections are persistent and can not only affect your potato plants but your neighbourhood’s plants as well.  All plants in the potato family can be affected like tomatoes, eggplants and chillies. These diseases can also contaminate soil and make an area implantable.
Plant viral infections are persistent and can not only affect your potato plants but your neighbourhood’s plants as well. All plants in the potato family can be affected like tomatoes, eggplants and chillies. These diseases can also contaminate soil and make an area implantable. Remember the Great Famine? Caused by potato blight!

If using non certified seed potatoes the chance of having a disease outbreak is increased.  This is because the appearance of a growing potato crop, or the harvested tubers, is not a reliable guide to the pathogen level in the tubers. For example, late season viral infections may not be apparent until the next season’s crop is growing. So give your vegetable patch a little TLC and start with healthy certified seed.

The varieties of certified seed potato seem endless – Dutch Cream, Sebago, Pontiac and Desiree are just a few.  There are red ones, pink ones and even blue ones!  Some are good for boiling or mashing, some are better for baking and frying, there are even some that are perfect for microwaving! Some are all-rounders.  How you like your potatoes cooked is how you choose which variety to grow.

Some of my potatoes one year

Potatoes like a sunny well drained position.  It is best to plant them in rich fertile soil that has not had potatoes grown in for at least 3 years. Usually the best time to plant potatoes is 2-3 weeks before the last frost but we don't get a frost so I planted mine in July. The seed should have shoots of about 1cm long; this usually takes about 4 weeks, if seed was bought in May/June. Large seed can be cut into two, three or four. The cut surface should dry for a couple of days before planting. I don't do this as I don't have much success when I pre-cut the potatoes.

The principle for growing potatoes is the same whether you grow them in the ground or in pots.

Potatoes in the Ground

1.      Plant the certified seed potato in soil (I use great quality compost and some sugar cane mulch in it so it is lose and free draining) and as the potatoes

grow and start to show through the soil, I pile more soil up around them. Potatoes form on the surface, when you pile soil up onto of them continually it helps stops the potatoes from being exposed to light and going green. (Green potatoes can upset the stomach) This process also helps produce more potatoes.

2.      Harvest your potatoes when the lower leaves on the plants start to turn yellow. You can dig only what you need and to leave the other plants to grow on. If you want to dig and store your potatoes cut the tops off and allow 2-3 weeks before digging. I have had potato bushes that I harvested from continuously through the growing season and other plants I left and harvested all together. I found neither affected the ultimate outcome of the potatoes.

Dug potatoes should be kept in a cool dark spot.

Good luck and just think how amazed your friends will be when at your Summer pool party you have blue potato salad!

Some varieties of Potatoes Trevallan stocks

The last few years of increment weather around potato season has led to many varieties either being only available in small quantities or just not at all. This year we have a limited supply of Sebago, Dutch Cream and Desiree

BUY SEED POTATOES NOW

Sebago

A long to oval shaped all-rounder with white flesh and skin that’s common in supermarkets and green grocers around Australia. This potato is great for boiling, mash, roasting, baking, chips and mash.

Dutch Cream

Dutch Cream, from Holland, are perfect for frying or serving cold in a salad. Their creamy flavour means they are one of the few waxy varieties that work in a mash as well.

Nicola

Nicola have a low GI rating, with a yellow buttery flesh. They are a firm potato and will hold its shape after boiling, making it perfect for salads. They make a dense creamy mash and good roasted if you part boil; as this will make them crisp up easier.

Kennebec
An old-fashioned variety that has been in Australia for many years. It’s origin from the USA. Loves to be Baked, Roasted or Fried.  Have heard its great for the BBQ or pizzas. 

Desiree

Red-skinned, yellow flesh with a distinctive flavour. Originally bred in the Netherlands in 1962. Has great resistance to drought, and is fairly resistant to disease. Best used for roasting, baking, and boiling

Pontiac

A very reliable all-rounder with pink skin and white flesh. Great to boil, bake, roast, microwave and mash but not so suitable for frying.

Kipfler

A waxy, finger-shaped, knobbly potato with yellow skin and a light yellow flesh with a buttery nutty taste that is great boiled, steamed, in salads and roasted but not recommended for frying or chips.

Salad Rose

Features a red skin with yellow flesh. Salad Rose is excellent for salads, steaming, boiling, roasting and mashing. Very good for Soups and stews as it won't break apart once cooked.

Sapphire

Has unusual purple skin and flesh. Like all darker coloured veggies Sapphire is packed full of antioxidants. The colour is maintained even after cooking. Great all rounder potato, suitable for salads, boiling, mashing, roasting and chips.

BUY SEED POTATOES NOW

The Autumn Vegetable Patch

The beginning of March is traditionally the time to plant our winter crops.

Sometimes this is not the case in SE QLD, Ipswich in particular! Every year is different but most years we can get March day time temperatures exceeding 35 degrees. In weather like this I wonder how anyone could seriously be thinking about planting cabbages!

We do get vegetable garden bored. We want to play yet we know it's to early.

There are a number of things you can be doing to get your vegetable patch up to scratch so when the ‘autumn' (cooler) weather starts you’ll be ready.

Most winter vegetables will grow better if the soil’s pH reading is quite high around 6.5. Your soil’s pH is a measure of its alkalinity or acidity and different plants thrive at different pH levels.

Before you add anything though, you should always measure your soil’s pH with a testing kit. Adding lime will increase your pH reading - making your soil more alkaline. Attempting to make your soil more acidic - a lower pH reading - is a lot more difficult.

Eden Seeds

If you need to add lime to your soil it might be too late for granulated lime to work. It can take months to break down. Eco-flo lime is a liquid concentrated form of lime and is very effective. Enriched with seaweed eco-flo lime is perfect for rapidly correcting acidic soils and boosting calcium levels in your soil. It is also registered organic.

Another thing to note is if your soil’s pH is great you may still want to add some Dolomite. Dolomite helps add calcium and magnesium back into your soil. These two trace elements are water soluble so are easily leeched out of your soil. Especailly after a lot of rain. Lack of calcium is the number one cause of blossom end rot, so even if your garden’s pH is around 6.5 I would still add some Dolomite.

Next make sure your vegetable garden is free of weeds and if you need to add more compost (we use Searles organic compost) or manure now is time to do it.

While it may be too hot or wet to be planting seedlings into the ground, it's a great time to be raising seeds.  Seeds are a great way to try different vegetables. The seed range is so extensive at Trevallan we have a “seed wall”. An added bonus of using seeds is you can stagger your crops so everything doesn't ripen at once.

Trevallan stocks Eden Seeds. Eden Seeds distributes old traditional open pollinated varieties of seeds, preferably old Australian varieties and organically or bio-dynamically grown where possible.

It is believed that these types of seeds grow plants that are more nutritious and better tasting, hardier and easier to grow for the home gardener. These older varieties also produce over an extended period of time.

When growing seeds it is best to use a seed raising mix. Some seeds require pre planting preparation, beetroot supposedly germinates quicker if soaked overnight. Some people also do the first water with a weak solution of liquid fertilizer.

As for what to plant your seeds into, there are a myriad of choices - plastic pots, folded up toilet rolls, egg cartons, old seedling trays.

Home Grown Eggplants and Capsicum

I find the trick to seeds is keeping them in part shade and a really LIGHT watering every day to every second day in hot weather. You want to keep them moist but not wet. Once the plant starts to grow I add a little Triple Boost Liquid fertiliser to my watering.

Once the weather cools down continuously it will be time to plant out all those seeds into your garden beds.

If you don't get the chance to raise your own seeds Trevallan stocks a great range of vegetables in seedlings. These seedlings won’t start arriving until about April as it’s still just too hot to plant. Some of your choices could be beetroot, broccoli, snow peas, strawberries, Asian greens, onions, leeks, cauliflower, spinach, rocket, coriander, kale and cabbage. Some people may also like to plant out peas, though I don’t know why… Yuk!

Don't forget we are now proud stockist's of VEGEPOD. Vegepods are an easy to manage contained raised gardening bed that has self-watering technology by using a wicking system. Plants can last weeks without watering in our Vegepods. They also have a Protective Cover that protects crops from UV and pests. We have two set up in the garden centre and for the first time in years we had a tomato crop in summer without fruit fly stings!

Once everything is planted out in your garden don't forget to give it some Organic Link and fortnightly applications of Triple Boost and Neem.

Happy gardening.

Winter Vegetables

Autumn. Warm Days, cool nights. Perfect for vegetable planting.

By now your vegetable patch has been freshly composted and manured. It’s just waiting for you to plant out. If you are having trouble with how to start off your vegetable patch, check out my Vegetable Patch Checklist

The basic cool season vegetables that I find grow well in most areas are –  broccoli, beetroot (my favourite), cabbage, cauliflower, leek, onions, shallots, silverbeet, spinach, snow peas, strawberries (my other favourite), peas, kale and rhubarb. 

If you don’t get a frost or you can cover your vegetables - beans, lettuce, capsicum and tomatoes can also be grown.

If you get really cold you can give brussels sprouts a go.

This is the basic vegetable range; there are so many different variations on these classic cooler weather vegetables.

In seedlings alone you can get about four different versions of broccoli. 

If you start using old fashioned open pollinated seeds, the list can be endless. 

If your vegetable patch consists of a variety of different sized pots don’t worry, there is a large range of dwarf vegetables available in seedlings and seeds. 

Leek, lettuce, capsicums, shallots, silverbeet, spinach, snow peas, strawberries, peas and rhubarb all grow well in pots without needing dwarf varieties.

The secret to growing any vegetables in pots follows the same principles as growing in the ground. 

Start with the best quality soil or potting mix, mulch with an organic material (I like organic sugar cane mulch that is free from weeds), fertilise with a complete organic slow release fertiliser and liquid fertilise fortnightly with a complete organic liquid fertiliser. 

I like using the Plant of Health range of fertilisers – Organic Link and Triple Boost and Searles' range of garden soil for gardens and potting mix - Platinum Potting Mix for pots

I find the cooler months are the best time for growing herbs.  Nearly all the herbs are available now. Herbs grow well in the garden or in pots and most herbs can be grouped together in pots to make mini herb gardens. 

The best thing about growing cool season vegetables is that it’s usually too cold for the pests to be out and about.  If you do get a few pests a pyrethrum based spray or one of the new organic sprays like eco oil or eco fend work well.  Mildew and mould is a common problem during wet winters - copper spray (some are considered organic) can be the best solution. 

I have heard that having pretend white butterflies in your vegetable patch not only looks pretty but helps deter moths. Jerry Coleby-Williams has also mentioned that Land Cress is a confirmed biocontrol. We stock Land cress in seeds and in plants. 

Remember though the healthier the soil, the healthier the plants and the less likely you are to get problems. Now get outside and get dirty!

Why you don't grow food from scraps!

I know the current trend is growing fruit and vegetables from scraps. However, I would never recommend growing anything from scraps or seeds from fruit and vegetables you buy from the shops. .

Why? Well, firstly, most of the fruit you buy from the shops, even if it is organic, has been hybridised. As a result, the seeds you put in may be nothing like the vegetable you took it out of.

Secondly, a lot of fruit and vegetables nowadays have seeds in them that are sterile, which means the seeds will not usually grow. If they do , it will only be for a short period of time and they’ll usually wither out and die before anything happens, or will be very prone to insects and disease.

Thirdly, and in my eyes the most important reason why you shouldn’t grow from your scraps, is some vegetables, like potato tubers, can carry many bacterial, viral, and fungal diseases. These bacterial, viral, and fungal diseases are easily passed onto other plants and as a result, can contaminate the soil and make an area implantable. The infections in potatoes can not only affect your potato plants, but also have an impact on all plants in the potato family, such as tomatoes, eggplants and chillies.

I don't believe planting from scraps saves me time or money, in fact, I honestly believe it costs me time and money. This is why I try to always use vegetable seeds that are non-hybrid and open pollinated, like Eden Seeds, and I ALWAYS buy new certified organic potato seed.

Trevallan Lifestyle Centre stocks a wide range of Eden Seeds, which are non-hybrid, old traditional, open pollinated varieties of seeds, with no chemical treatment or genetic modification.

Fertilising at Trevallan

Quick Guide to Trevallan's Favourite Things

Trevallan Lifestyle Centre loves to use the Plant of Health Range at home and at the Garden Centre. We stock this range in store, what we use, you can use.

Organic Link

• Slow release pelletised fertiliser

• Can be used on every plant – natives, roses, camellias, palms, vegetables – we use it on every plant in the centre

• Won’t burn or leech

• Finely balanced mineral fertiliser

• A high carbon, composted fertiliser to promote nutrient retention and to supply a home base for beneficial micro-organisms

• For more information click here

Triple Boost

• Liquid Fertiliser (mix with water and water over plants foliage)

• Boosts growth and root development

• Promotes healthy green appearance

• Super concentrated fertiliser based on nature’s super foods – fish, seaweed and earthworm combined with trace elements

• Contains Tricontanol (extracted from bees wax) powerful photosynthesis enhancer

Liquid Silica with Potash

• Liquid Fertiliser (mix with water and water over plants foliage)

• Potash helps the plants produce fruit and flowers

• Silica can help with plant stress caused by heat, wind, cold and transplanting

• For more information Click Here

Plant Care

• Liquid Fertiliser (mix with water and water over plants foliage)

• Super tonic for stressed, flowering or fruiting plants

• Helps prevent insect attack

• Promotes the plants health during flowering and fruiting

• Increases the plants foliage gloss and vitality

Soil Soaker

• Eco friendly surfactant

• Allows water to soak into the soil retaining it where it’s needed most.

• Available in liquid form or granular form

Instant Living Microbes

• Organic liquid that provides good bacteria to your soil (PROBOTIC FOR YOUR SOIL).

• Enriches and detoxifies your soil and compost.

• Healthy soil leads to enhanced plant growth. This can lead to better crop yields, drought and frost resistance and better pest and disease resistance. 

• Add to water and water into soil

Bio Trace

• All in one trace element mix that contains major and micro trace elements that are essential to a plants overall health.

• For more information on Trace Elements Click Here

Lawn and Turf

• Easy to spread, convenient application

• Improves soil fertility

• Improved root growth and lush green appearance

• Retains moisture

• Help put carbon back into the soil

• Contains beneficial microbes

• Added Trace Elements ensures luxury uptake of minerals maintaining mineral balance & lawn health

• Continual use helps prevent Lawn Grub

Birchy

• Birchy AquaMix is a fertilizer mixing unit for liquid fertilising without a watering can. The well designed dosing system ensures a precise mixture of water and liquid fertiliser. This is what we use in the garden centre and at home to apply the liquid fertilisers mentioned above.

Is Green Manure just really Green Poo?

Wonderful blistering hot days, humidity that feels like we should be living in tropics, rain and winds that blow your roof off then cool days that make us wonder if that 45 degree day was just in our imagination. 

This is what it can feel like to live in Ipswich in the summer. 

How would you fare in this weather? Hot, bothered, quick tempered? 

 I know I've been struggling, the smallest things bother me. 

 If I had a vegetable patch right now, I know I'd be pulling most of it up. 

 If the heat didn't kill everything off, the humidity or insects probably would have. 

In years past when I have had a vegetable patch in summer I have suffered with burnt leaves, white mould all over my cucumbers, tomato blight and then to top it all off grubs in my fruit (from fruit fly stings).

Which is why now, at this time of year I always sow a summer green manure crop. 

Green manure crops are crops grown not to be harvested but instead to be incorporated into the soil before they reach maturity to contribute to the health of the soil. 

It is an old technique of soil management that seems to have been forgotten by many gardeners and farmers. I think it's because we are no longer aware of the proven benefits and cost effectiveness of green manure crops. 

Trevallan Lifestyle Centre stocks Eden Seeds, a seed company that only stocks old traditional open pollinated varieties of seed, preferably old Australian varieties and organically or bio-dynamically grown where possible.  Eden Seeds do a wonderful green manure seed pack that contains a mix of seeds suited to most climates.

Green manure crops contribute directly to the fertility of your vegetable patch through the supply of important plant nutrients. Legumes, for instance, supply nitrogen because their roots form an association with soil-borne bacteria that can transform nitrogen from the atmosphere into nitrogen compounds that can be used by plants. Isn't nature wonderful? It's also just saved you money as now you don't need to add as much fertiliser to your vegetable patch.

Green manure crops can also contribute indirectly to nutrient supply. Just the process of decomposition of the crop aids in making further nutrients available that are already present in the soil but in a form that cannot be used by plants.  After the plants have grown and you incorporate them back into the soil you are supplying vast amounts of organic matter that is usually supplied by organic mulches. Once again saving you money - no need to buy organic mulch. 

Drought resistance can also be improved as a lot of the crops are very deep rooted. Their roots can penetrate the subsoil and open it up. Next season's crops can also obtain plant nutrients from the subsoil once it is opened by deep rooted green manure crops.

 So this weekend get dirty and take out all your hot weather anger on your vegetable patch by pulling everything up and planting some green manure crops. Your winter vegetables will thank you.