Best Cut Flowers

I love the cooler weather. I know the days are still warm, but the nights have that glorious cool tinge and even better, all the plants I love to surround myself with are now in bloom, or coming into bloom.

Cut Flowers that lasts for months inside or out!

I love gift giving at this time of year. I don’t do cut flowers, of course as I want my gifts to last a little longer, but I also know not everyone is a green thumb, so I also don’t want to cause any stress with my gift.

Which is why I always love giving Cyclamens.

Why Cyclamens?

Cyclamen persicum, native to the rocky slopes of the eastern Mediterranean, think Turkey, Syria, and Jordan is usually the Cycamen you will find at Trevallan. Despite their exotic origin, they’re remarkably well suited to life here in Ipswich during winter on patios or cool, bright indoor spaces.

They flower for months, from April right through to October, in a rich tapestry of colours, from snowy whites to rich reds, mauves, pinks, and bi-tones. This year a blue one was released for the first time. The foliage is also just as striking as the flowers — heart, kidney, or rounded leaves, patterned or marbled with silver.

A gift and a decoration in one.

Treat Them Cold, Keep Them Beautiful

Even though Cyclamens can grow well indoors, they love the cold. Cool air slows their respiration and preserves their blooms. I always say: cold mornings are their skincare routine!

At home, I water mine once a week, a good slow drench under a tap using icy cold water. Then, I pop them outside (in a shady spot) overnight. That cool, fresh air seems to give them a new lease on life. Indoors, they sit prettily in a bright room until it’s time for their next drink.

The trick is to let them dry out slightly between waterings. Cyclamens grow from a tuber, and those tubers are prone to rot if overwatered or if water collects in the crown. So always water the soil around the base, never directly into the middle of the plant. That centre is their weak spot.

Potting, Planters, and Fuss-Free Beauty

I prefer to keep mine in a decorative planter, not potted into a decorative pot with drainage. I simply place the Cyclamen, in its original black plastic pot, inside the planter. That way, I can take it out to water properly, let it drain, and then pop it back in. Just don’t let water sit in the base, soggy roots are sad roots.

Feeding Flowers, Not Foliage

Cyclamens are moderate feeders, and like many flowering plants, too much nitrogen means lots of leafy growth and very few flowers. To keep mine flowering and healthy, I feed fortnightly with Silica and Potash Liquid. This helps strengthen cell walls, increase flower production, and prolong bloom life. The result? Bloom after bloom, week after week.

Deadheading and Dormancy

Cyclamens don’t like being trimmed with scissors. To remove a tired flower or yellowing leaf, gently twist the stem at the base and pull it cleanly away from the tuber. This reduces the risk of rot or infection and helps the plant focus its energy on new growth.

Cyclamens grow from a tuber and tend to die down during our hot, humid summer. In our hot, humid climate, that’s perfectly normal. You can let the plant rest by placing the pot in a cool, dry, shady spot, reduce watering to almost nothing, and wait. If you’re lucky, it may re-sprout next autumn. If not? Well, you still got months of blooms for the price of a bunch of cut flowers and then some.

Cyclamen - best flower for indoors

A Cyclamen will warm your soul, even on the coldest morning. Whether you’re decorating your home, cheering up your work desk, or spreading a little love, don’t forget, a living gift like this blooms longer, lingers longer, and keeps on giving.

Caladium

One of my all time favourite plants is the Caladium.

I have heard some people call caladiums garish, with their vibrant leaf colours, but I adore them.

I usually grow my caladiums in a shady spot in the garden, but I do keep a few in pots that I can bring inside during the warmer months, as it’s one of the best plants to have indoors during the heat.

Caladiums are known for their beautiful leaves which appear in the warmer months from corms. The older and fuller in the pot or garden, the better the leaf colour, so try not to split your caladiums too often.

Their foliage is absolutely amazing and constantly changing, plus they get bigger and better every year. Their leaves can range in size from about 10cm to about 50cm and the colour can range from transparent, pink, through to dark vibrant red with splashes of green. There are so many colour combinations I don’t think I could ever collect them all … I do plan on trying though!

To gift a Caladium means you are gifting the recipient joy and delight in their lives and this is exactly what caladiums do for me, bring me joy and delight.

As soon as they start to pop up from underground and show their foliage off, I bring the pots inside. They will survive inside in a well lit area and I find the darker the spot the less colour the foliage gets. They also don’t like cold houses, so try to find a warmer spot.

They adore the heat and humidity and they don’t require a lot of water, about once a week during the really hot times and the ones in the garden get watered and treated the same as all other plants.

I use them all throughout the house at this time of year to add colour to a sometimes solely green landscape.

When the cooler weather approaches and they start to die down, I put the pot back outside in a warm shady spot and leave it alone until it pops up again next year.

If you are growing your Caladiums in the ground, I don’t ever pull them up when they die down. I find the older they get, the better they look. As soon as the nights start to warm up, these beauties will pop up from underground to surprise you with their colours and then as the nights start to get too cold they will slowly disappear again....

I try to fertilise my Caladiums in August, just before it starts to get warm, with Organic Link. Through their growing season, I alternate liquid fertilising them with Silica and Potash and Triple Boost.

I love the way caladiums can instantly lift my mood with their tropical feel and I think they add a colourful, magical touch to your garden.

Caladiums are available at Trevallan from November to March

Streptocarpus

You want a plant that flowers most of the year, easy to look after, doesn’t mind being a little on dry side and survives in the shade?

Honestly, is that too much to ask for?

Not when Chelsea, plant detective, is on the case!

I have the perfect plants for you - Streptocarpus

You may already know the amazing Streptocarpus caulescens. This beautiful plant used to be quite common; you have probably even grown it yourself or know someone that has it growing.

Streptocarpus caulescens are Nodding Violets.

This beautiful evergreen plant is so dainty. I find it works fantastically well in pots and hanging baskets. Just like its sister the African Violet, the Streptocarpus Caulescens doesn’t mind being a bit dry. It will grow and flower perfectly well in a warm shaded position. During the winter it can even handle a little morning sun. It doesn’t like heavy frosts.

The leaves are small, dark green and fleshy and the plant usually grows as a compact mass never really getting any higher than about 30cm. The flowers are the best part about this plant. Most of the year showy elegant, mauve-blue flowers are produced on long stems that hover or arch over the plant. This is where this beautiful plant gets its common name - Nodding Violet.

This plant has been bred tough, it’s us who baby it into being a not so tough plant. In the wild, species can be found growing on shaded rocky hillsides or cliffs, on the ground, in rock crevices.

Some of you may be thinking Nodding Violet, oh that’s so old fashioned. I want big bold flowers, not dainty flowers. So let me introduce you to Streptocarpus (hybrid) Ladyslippers®.

These Streptocarpus feature stunning large tubular flowers for most of the year in a variety of colours. These guys are just as hardy as their sisters just with bigger, bolder flowers and larger than life leaves.

I find they are best suited to hanging baskets or pots where you can get up close and enjoy their flowers. Just like their sisters they do prefer warm, well lit shady areas. You can bring them inside for short periods so everyone can enjoy their beauty. I like to have two (or three) that I swap around.

Even though this plant is tough and likes to dry out between waterings, I still would use the best potting mix - Searles' Platinum when planting it in pots or hanging baskets. It has great water retention and even though Streptocarpus don’t like to have wet feet I still use the best and just adjust my watering to suit the plant.

I always try to fertilize my plants at the turn of the season with Organic Link and I would try to alternate fortnightly the liquid fertilizers between Triple Boost and Silica and Potash.

 So bring a little happiness to your shady area with these hardy plants that have show stoppping flowers!

Spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum, spath, Peace Lilly, dungeon plant!

It's the original 70s house plant. In recent times it has become popular with the emergence of the variegated foliage forms.

Why is this plant so popular?

Lush green foliage, flowers consistently through warmer months, easy to take care of, works inside or shade gardens!

There are so many forms of Spathiphyllums, you can’t get bored!. Short and fat lush green leaves, long and skinny lush green leaves, big and fat lush green leaves and Giganotosaurus lush green leaves. There is also a form that has crinkly green and white variegated leaves and just a flat glossy variegated leaf. There is also a silver leafed form.

All have beautiful white flowers. Some flowers sit high out of the foliage and some sit in amongst the foliage. Some are big and some are little.

This plant is an understory plant of the rainforest and basically requires very little light (hence its common name 'Dungeon Plant') and very low water. Which is probably why it was so popular.

The NASA Clean Air Study has also found that Spathiphyllum cleans indoor air of certain environmental contaminants, including benzene and formaldehyde.

Seriously how could one not want this indoors....

Spathiphyllum Picasso

Oh well here we go .....

We worked out the flower wasn't good for our kids or animals to eat, so it slowly got banned from the homes of plant eating animal and children.

Then the tips of the leaves started turning brown and yellow making the plant look ugly and not Insta worthy.

Now that's because we all became afraid to give our plants a good drink. Spathiphyllums don't like it when you consistently give them little bits of water (shallow watering). I know you don't want to ruin Aunt Frans antique table with water running every where, so invest in a planter or take your Spathiphyllum to the sink to water it.

Spathiphyllums like a good long drink where water flows through the soil and out the bottom. Once a week is usually fine. If it doesn't last that long you need to reassess what your Spathiphyllum is planted in.

Spathiphyllums should be planted in a fantastic quality potting mix, remember they are understory plants living and surviving in decaying matter! The better the quality of potting soil, the less watering you'll need to do. I always use Platinum potting mix.

If you don’t want to repot your Spathiphyllum try using Searles Recharge. Recharge does what it says recharges old potting mix. I love this product and use it about once a year on all my indoor plants.

Spathiphyllum Sensation variegated

Spathiphyllums also don't like sitting in wet muddy yucky potting mix either. So make sure your soil is free draining.

Now the most annoying reason Spathiphyllums got a bad rap is the flowers turning green ... why they do that?

Well it is believed it's due to two major issues. From my research they are unsure which is main reason. I have started a few experiments at Trevallan.

Firstly Spathiphyllums prefer low light (remember understory plant) too much light makes the chemicals in the plants brain go all funny and it produces the green flower.

Secondly Spathiphyllums like certain nutrients. Green flowers can be caused by a chemical imbalance caused by under or over fertilisation. Too much or too little of what they are still unsure. When you do get green flowers why not try Bio Trace, a complete trace element liquid feed, to help the plant adjust and hopefully start producing white flowers again.

At the end of August I always give my Spathiphyllums a handful of granular sulphate of potash. I have found the use of potash at this time of year gives me great white flowers at Christmas.

I truly love this easy to care for plant

Aglaonema

Aglaonema, pronounced Agg-low-neem-uh, is another one of my all time favourite house plants.

I think I'm a foliage girl more than a flowery girl.

What’s not to love? 

• Spectacular Foliage Colours

• Fabulous Indoors Plant

• Grows well outside in Full Shade but can tolerate a little sun

• Great for Pots or Gardens

• Tolerates Dry Conditions

Aglaonemas have attractive glossy variegated foliage and colourful stems. They can be green and white, shades of pink, pink and green, pink and white and all shades in between. There are so many variations it’s easy to start a collection.

I grow them just for the foliage but they do flower it’s just not anything to write home about.

I feel they bring a lovely tropical feel to your indoor space.

Aglaonemas are relatively slow growing. They don't like having wet feet or being overpotted. I find it's better to treat them mean to keep them looking good. I have killed a few over the years simply by never letting them dry out. I now still use an excellent quality potting mix, like Searles Platinum Mix but I just don't water as often and I never let them sit in a saucer of water.

I find Aglaonemas can handle a dark position inside but really thrive in a well lit position. They also don’t mind being planted in gardens or pots outside in shady positions.

I find Aglaonemas to be so versatile, I love using them around the home. Up high, down low, they seem to suit all positions. As an added bonus these plants are known as luck-bringers and The NASA Clean Air Study determined that they were effective at removing common household air toxins formaldehyde and benzene.

So they really are the perfect houseplant. To keep them continually looking good and putting on a great display, fertilise with Plant of Health Eco Friendly Fertilisers Organic Link about every three months and a fertilise of granular sulphate of potash, usually once weather has warmed up, around late August to help to help the foliage remain vibrant. I also like to keep their leaves free from dust so every few weeks I take them outside and give it a liquid feed (and shower) with Triple Boost Liquid Fertiliser.

On a side note Aglaonemas are not for human or animal consumption. These plants, like many others, are considered poisonous as they contain calcium oxalate crystals. If ingested they cause irritation of the mucous membranes, and the juice can cause skin irritation and painful rash. So as with all plants unless you know its edible ... Don't eat it!

African Violets

Saintpaulia or for us normal folks African Violet.

African Violet, these two words that can strike fear into any house plant owner.

My Friends 30year old African Violet

Unfortunately for many people their African Violets did not survive long and so have been tarred with the “too hard to grow or touchy” brush.

Which is a shame as these small beautiful flowering plants are actually very hardy and are extremely suitable for people who may have a tendency to forget they have an indoor plant!

If you know someone that has successfully grown an African violet they usually say ‘oh I’ve had that for years and I never do anything to it and it just grows!’

Overthinking, Over Googling, Overwatering and too much TLC is the most common cause of death.

Some people will tell you never let water touch the foliage, that will kill them.

Some people say only water from the bottom

Some people will tell you only wicking pots work.

Some people will tell you only use African Violet fertiliser, African Violet Potting Mix and special pots

Some people will do anything to make it work for them.

What we do! Boss lady keeps ours outside in the shadehouse (when they not in flower) and they get overhead water all the time, they get Triple Boost when we fertilise with Birchy. Boss Lady has planted them in Hanging Baskets, Terracotta Pots, Ceramic Pots, Plastic Pots…. They are huge and lush. We just don’t overthink it.

When they are in flower, I bring them in and keep them in a well lit position inside. Don Burke recommends you place your African violets within 30cm of a window. I haven’t got my ruler out lately but I’m sure mine’s about that give or take a metre or so. They do prefer a well lit, warm position, free from drafts and cold winds.

Variegated leaf African Violet

I water them maybe once a week like all the other plants. They have a saucer and they may sit in water for a couple of hours while they soak it up. I will try to wait until the soil is really dry then water till the soil is wet.

I prefer to pot my African Violets into a terracotta pots, they seem more breathable but wicking pots do work.

I use Searles Platinum Potting Mix and if mine haven’t flowered in a while and they are looking really healthy I stop the Triple Boost Liquid fertiliser and use a high flowering fertiliser like Silica and Potash.

That’s it.

No special instructions apart from, don’t over love/water them.

Now I am sure there are many people out there with their own methods of keeping African violets alive but I’m working with the theory “Treat ‘em mean keep ‘em Green”.

These plants are native to Tanzania and once cultivated became one of the most popular house plants in the world. I was reading that the first sighting was a botanist walking through the rainforest! In 1946 the first African Violet Society - The African Violet Society of America was formed.

African Violets grow up to 15 cm tall and up to 30 cm wide. Their leaves are oval, with fine hairs, and a fleshy texture. The leaves can vary between dark green, lime green and variegated. The flowers can be about 3 cm diameter and grow in clusters of 3–10 or more on slender stalks. There seems to be about a million different colour variations.

These are beautiful plants and once you find your ‘knack’ for them, you wont be able to stop collecting all the colours.

Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia, pronounced dee·fuhn·ba·kee·uh, is another one of my all time favourite house plants.

I think I'm a foliage girl more than a flowery girl.

Dieffenbachias can have attractive variegated white and green, cream and green, or all-green leaves that can be speckled, splotched, or loosely striped. There are so many variations it’s easy to start a collection.

I grow them just for the foliage but they do flower and it looks similar to a a peace lily flower.

I feel they bring a lovely tropical feel to your indoor space.

They don't like having wet feet or being overpotted. I find it's better to treat them mean to keep them looking good. I have killed a few over the years simply by never letting them dry out. I now still use an excellent quality potting mix, like Searles Platinum Mix but I just don't water as often and I never let them sit in a saucer of water.

I find Dieffenbachias don't mind a slighter darker spot in the home but the more light they get the shower the variegation in the leaves becomes. The darker the spot the slower the growth and less vibrant foliage colour.

Dieffenbachias can have long and skinny leaves or short and fat leaves. I find if the leaves are long and skinny the plant tends to grow more upright. The fatter the leaves the shorter and squatter the plant.

The best thing about Dieffenbachias is that they look good on a table looking down onto their foliage but they also look great up high looking up into their foliage. They are so versatile and I love using them around the home.

I can group them with other variegated plants like Aglaonemas, with other Dieffenbachias, with lush green plants like Philodendrons or just on their own.

I just love using them around the home. They are one of my first choices with house plants.

To keep them continually looking good and putting on a great display, fertilise with Plant of Health Eco Friendly Fertilisers Organic Link about every three months and a fertilise of granular sulphate of potash, usually once weather has warmed up, around late August to help to help the foliage remain vibrant. I also like to keep their leaves free from dust so every few weeks I take them outside and give it a liquid feed (and shower) with Triple Boost Liquid Fertiliser.

On a side note Dieffenbachias common name is “dumbcane,”! The sap of the plant can cause numbness when touched and interfere with the ability to speak if it gets near your mouth, causing you to temporarily become mute, or “dumb.” So as with all plants unless you know its edible ... Don't eat it!

Air Plants

One of the most popular plants I get asked for is “Air Plants”

When we talk about air plants we usually mean Tillandsias. There are over 650 different species of Tillandsias and most of them are epiphytes.

An epiphyte is a plant that doesn't grow in soil, instead it grows in the air (usually in trees or on rocks). Examples include bromeliads and orchids which use trees not just for support but also to get better access to sunlight for photosynthesis. They can also grow on each other.

Tillandsias have evolved into a remarkable genus adapting to a wide range of conditions with the amazing ability of being able to capture all water and nutrients via small scales on the leaf surface rather than through roots. So while Tillandsias grow ‘in the air’ they still need some basic requirements.

As with all plants if you want to know how to grow them well you need to look for their country of origin and their original growing habitat. Tillandsias have evolved and adapted to grow in a remarkably wide range of habitats.

Many Tillandsias grow naturally in jungles and swamps, but some grow wonderfully in the cold mountain air and the inhospitable deserts.

A simple guide to the determining a tillandsias requirements is by the nature of the leaves or base of the plant. Thick hard silver leaves and a dense, thick base generally mean that the plant is from a very exposed and dry environment. Finer, softer silver leafed varieties are from exposed positions with a high rainfall. The greener varieties without obvious scales are from shaded conditions with a high rainfall.

The leaves that are covered with specialized cells (trichomes) capable of rapidly absorbing water. This means that just because your air plant doesn’t have any soil around it, doesn’t mean it likes to dry out. Most species absorb moisture and nutrients through the leaves from rain, dew, dust, decaying leaves and insect matter.

Tillandsias need regular misting especially if they are grown indoors as our indoor air can be very drying for them plus indoor air is usually very sterile so always mix a low dose liquid food into the misting bottle to help keep your Tillandsias happy.

I would also give my Tillandsias a thorough soaking at least once a month to sufficiently fill the cells of the plant. During summer you may need to mist every 1 to 3 days. In a dark cold moist area watering every 2 to 4 weeks may be sufficient.

Many of the Tillandsias foliage form a rosette like funnel system so that all water and nutrients funnel back to main junction. Their flowers are usually very bright so that they can attract pollinators. Don’t expect your Tillandsia to flower straight away, flowering can take anywhere from 5 to 20 years (from seed) depending on species.

Tillandsias don’t require lots of light and will happily grow in the shade or indoors just make sure it’s not too dark and warm. Most dislike cold and wet.

Tillandsias can attach themselves to trees, rocks, other plants, fence posts anything really. You can even just have them sitting on your table nothing else around.

These plants are very cool and very versatile, why not have some fun and get an air plant today

We have some interesting air plants available now.

Alocasias

Alocasias are fast becoming a must have indoor plant, but can it really survive in everyone’s home?

Alocasias are a tuberous growing plant, generally found in the tropics. They dislike the cold and if planted out in a garden can die down during our colder months and reshoot in the spring.

You will need a bright, or really well lit, area in your home for these babies. They tend to turn their leaves to face the light, so they’re not suitable for dark areas.

During summer, these plants appreciate you creating a little humidity bath for them. I read that sitting them in a dish filled with pebbles and water helps. The pebbles keep the roots from sitting in water, but the constant water supply increases humidity around the leaves. During winter, it’s best to let these guys dry out between waterings.

Alocasias hate to be over potted, so try to let it get really potbound before you repot it and only ever pot up to the next size.

A liquid fertilise with Triple Boost and Neem Oil once a fortnight would be appreciated. Mixing it up into a spray bottle and drenching the leaves, on top and underneath is preferable and fertilise with Organic Link (organic, complete fertiliser) at the turning of every season (every three months).

Every stunning plant needs some time out, so when my Alocasias look a little sad, I usually just place them in a shady spot in my garden and wait until they are looking amazing again.

I have found that they are susceptible to mites, yet if I remember to spray them weekly in summer, with a mixture of neem and liquid fertiliser, I can usually stop the infestation before it begins.

For me personally I have found that Alocasias grow fantastically in my garden and they are used as features either in mass plantings or single forms. For gardens that are in a lot of shade these plants have striking foliage and stems that really scream “look at me!”. Sometimes flowers aren’t the only way to provide your garden with bursts of colour.

Some of my favourite Alocasias

There are so many different varieties of Alocasias around these days that you will slowly become addicted to collecting them all. These are just some of my favourites that are commonly available.

Alocasia brisbanensis

Commonly called Cunjevoi. This plant is native to our Brisbane region. It's a clumping plant that can grow up to about 1.5m in height with large, green, spade-shaped glossy leaves. The best part about this plant is that it has a fragrant flower and juicy sweet smelling, red berry like balls. It can be used as a marginal or bog plant in full sun but it also grows beautifully indoors, in full shade on a patio or in a garden.

Alocasia Zebrina

This is one of my favourites with very long green arrow-shaped leaves and long white stems that are striped with dark markings like a little zebra. Can get up to 1.5m. Wow factor.

Alocasia amazonica 'Bambino' 

Alocasia Bambino

The say everything is cuter when in miniature. Bambino is a beautiful baby Alocasia, with slender deep green (almost black) leaves and dramatic white veins. This little guy will only get to about 30-40cm high and wide. Perfectly sized for showing off on your kitchen table or as a border plant in the garden.

Alocasia macrorrhiza 'Stingray'

Alocasia macrorrhiza 'Stingray'

What makes this plant a must have? Well, firstly it looks cool and funky. It has unique green, stingray shaped leaves that sit upon striped stems. Really who wouldn’t want this inside to stare at all day long?

Alocasia sarawakensis ‘Yucatan Princess’ 

I could dive deep into the depths of Yucatan Princess’ leaves all day. She has red wine coloured stems and dark thick green leather-like leaves. I have found in low light situations her red wine stem turns the purest white which is kind of cool too.

At full growth, her stems will be about 3m long and her leaf can get to over 1.5m long! In pots she may not reach this size, but she will still be very impressive.

Yucatan Princess can stand on her own in a large container commanding attention as an indoor or shade garden focal point. She also makes friends easily and mixes nicely with other plants. I have her multi planted at the moment with Peperomia ‘Red Edge’.

I’m thinking when mine grows big I’d love to have her potted at the front door with some Rex Begonias and a walking iris around her base. I know she won’t mind sharing the spotlight.

Alocasia reginula, the Black Velvet Alocasia

Alocasia reginula, the Black Velvet Alocasia is exotic and elegant. It reminds me of Cleopatra and ancient Egypt for some reason. I want to display this beautiful plant in a gold pot with some long tapered candles in gold stands ... all dark and moody.

Alocasia reginula has thick heart shaped black velvet leaves with iridescent silver veins. The leaves grow about 15cm long and 5cm wide. They sit atop a short fleshy stems and rarely get above 20cm in height.

Finding this native of the Southeast Asian Jungle used to be rare, but nowadays due to tissue culture, he is commonly found in shady gardens and indoors.

Alocasia baginda 'Dragon Scale'

Alocasia baginda 'Dragon Scale' and Alocasia cuprea 'Red Secret'

The Alocasia Dragon Scale looks like something out of a fairy tale with shimmering, reflective, textured foliage that is so tough and pliable it appears crafted from, well, dragon’s scales.

Alocasia Dragon Scale is a cultivated variety of Alocasia baginda, which is native to the tropical forests of Borneo. This Alocasia is a smaller grower and its leaves only tend to get to about 60cm long. In perfect conditions the leaves can get to about 1m, with a 50cm spread.

Alocasia cuprea 'Red Secret'

Alocasia cuprea 'Red Secret's has incredible rich, shiny, bronzey red foliage. These guys are relatively slow growing, taking ten years to reach maturity and then only reaching full height in perfect conditions. In most instances cuprea will only get to about 50cm high and 30cm wide. If you are lucky though, their leaves can reach about 1m and they will clump up to about 80cm.

Xanthosoma Lime Zinger 

While technically not an Alocasia many people do call Lime Zinger an Alocaisa so I’m throwing it into the mix here. Xanthosoma Lime Zinger is a stunning plant that features lime green heart shaped foliage. With each individual leaf capable of growing up to 50cm long and it’s stems can up to 1.5m long, this plant is guaranteed to add some WOW to pots or the garden!

Anthurium ambianum

Anthurium. One of my favourite indoor plants.

Most anthuriums we see today are a form of Anthurium ambianum. This form can handle the cool (though it hates frost) and low-light conditions. In warmer areas, these grow well outside in full shade, or you can grow them indoors.

They have beautiful, luscious green foliage and incandescent flowers that are usually shades of reds, pinks and whites. You can sometimes get purple and black, but they are not always available.

I find most people commonly refer to these as the "red peace lily" as they have a similar flower. Some call them flamingo flowers which I love and I'm pretty sure why this is my daughter’s second favourite plant (lipstick is her first).

The best thing about anthuriums is they flower most of the year and profusely flower during the warmer months. I have had a white one inside, flowering since Christmas, it has only now decided to have a short break.

Anthuriums can be used in pots, in the ground or in terrariums (pictured). Anthuriums are naturally semi- epiphyte and they can grow on rocks or trees. If growing in a pot, I find they don't like to be over potted or continuously potted up. They quite like their roots to fill the pot and be pot bound. They like a good quality, free-draining potting mix. If you do need to pot them up, it's best to let them rest outside for a month or two afterwards.

Anthuriums don't need a lot to drink and they don't like to sit in a saucer full of water. One big drink is better than lots of little ones, as they can also suffer from brown leaf tips like Spathiphyllums.

To keep them continually looking good and putting on a great display, fertilise with Plant of Health Eco Friendly Fertilisers Organic Link about every three months and a fertilise of granular sulphate of potash, usually once weather has warmed up, around late August. I also like to keep their leaves free from dust so every few weeks I take them outside and give it a liquid feed (and shower) with Triple Boost Liquid Fertiliser.

Anthuriums are very versatile plants but they can be rather slow growing and this makes them a great, long-lasting feature plant for most indoor situations.

In the past, these guys have had a bit of a bad rap due to us over-loving them, but I think it's time we added some flowers to our indoor gardens with Anthuriums.

Philodendron Mican

Philodendron Micans are my new favourite indoor plant and have almost surpassed my love of pothos!

The botanical name for these guys is a bit of a mouthful- Philodendron hederaceum var. hederaceum, so although I love using botanical names, I think in this instance, I’ll stick to Philodendron Micans.

These guys are native to Tropical America and Mexico, so they love the humidity that we get here in summer.

They are a semi-epiphytic, so it likes good free draining soil and doesn’t like wet feet at all.

I love these plants as they have lovely, deep green almost black velvety, heart-shaped leaves that are iridescent. On the backside, is a beautiful, deep red colour.

The leaves don’t tend to grow bigger than about 8cm wide and the plant climbs very quickly. The nodes are deeply packed with roots and can be easily propagated.

I’m really impressed with the versatility of this plant. It loves hanging down from the top of a bookshelf and being forgotten about but I’m also training one up a coir fibre pole as it’s perfect for skinny places in home where I need height, without bulk.

My house has limited light and I’m finding it does okay in dark spots, as well as really well-lit areas.

Like all my indoor plants I find these guys really appreciate a liquid feed fortnightly. I use Plant Care one fortnight and Triple Boost the next.

Rhaphidophora decursiva, Dragons Tail

I am loving the Rhaphidophora decursiva, Dragons Tail.

Now, I don’t just love this plant because it has a really cool name ... well I kind of bought it because really who doesn’t want a plant called Dragon’s Tail? However, it’s actually turned into one of my favourite plants because it’s so easy and looks amazing.

Rhaphidophora decursiva, native to the tropical forests of India and Southeast Asia and is classed as a climbing vine. In it’s native environment, it climbs up trees and rocks using its aerial roots to grip to the trunks or surfaces. In a pot inside, I suggest you get a chunky iron bark stake or a nice trellis for it to climb up. We had a stake at home and ours has twined itself around it, to form a thick green pole.

The leaves are a dark, lush, shiny green. When the leaves are young, they have an arrow shape but as they get older each leaf splits into parts forming a dragons tail!

I have found this plant grows well inside in bright places, but will also tolerate low light conditions. I am growing mine in a corner where I have struggled to grow other things and it’s doing well.

Dragon Tails are drought tolerant and don't require a lot of water. It’s one of those plants we can love to death, so make sure you allow the soil to dry out between waterings. I fertilise mine every three months with Organic Link and spray the foliage every fortnight with Triple Boost.

I sometimes forget how hardy this plant is, I think because it’s one of those plants that is so easy to care for.

If I could narrow my favourite, easy care, indoor plants down to a top ten, Dragon Tail’s are without a second thought on that list.

Muehlenbeckia platyclada

Muehlenbeckia platyclada

Say that three times really quickly!

It’s actually not that hard to say... I’ll break it down and then you can say it fast!

mule-en-beck-e-a

Plat-eh-clad-a

This strange looking plant has taken my heart and I can’t for the life of me work out why.

A few years ago we stocked this strange plant no one had ever heard of.. This was back when I used to try and convince you all having indoor plants was cool!

It was at the time when indoor plants had to be thick and lush and oddities weren’t accepted.

But alas, it wasn’t cool back then to buy ‘kooky’ indoor plants. Of course, nowadays everyone wants Kook and this plant has all the kook you can handle!

Muehlenbeckia platyclada used to be called Homalocladium platycladum and has some pretty ordinary common names like tapeworm plant, so we will keep it scientific today.

Muehlenbeckia platyclada comes from the tropical regions of New Guinea and Solman Islands. In its natural habitat it can handle sun, but requires a great deal of moisture and humidity and I have found an exceptionally well-lit indoor spot is perfect for this plant.

This plant is all Kook as it’s green stems are actually flat, as in 2d, and it’s usually leafless. These leafless flat stems branch out and weave their way up, forming a tall, bushy mass of green odd shaped ribbons. If it does form leaves, they are very little and alternate up the flat stems, with white with pink tinged flowers in spring.

These guys grow best when regularly looked after. You know the drill... fortnightly liquid feeds and three monthly granular feeds. Regular water, but not sitting in water. Best quality potting mix and given they can reach about 1-2m high and wide, I would regularly prune them out to keep them a little bit tidier .

These plants are very versatile and if you get tired of them indoors, move them outside. Jerry Coleby-Williams mentioned a while ago that he uses these plants for Victorian period horticulture-themed garden beds in the Palace Garden in Sydney Botanic Gardens.

I’m not sure pictures really do the plants Kook status justice, so if you want something really cool for your indoor space, simply call into Trevallan as we have them in stock now

Rhipsalis Disocactus

The other week I bought a Rhipsalis Disocactus, or Bits’n’Pieces, and I must admit it was love at first sight.

Although I have heard other, less savoury, names for this plant, such as Cockroach Legs and Alien tentacles ... I think I’ll stick to Bits’n’Pieces

The name comes from the fact it has all these odd shaped leaves and hairy tentacles protruding from the main stem and I guess the aesthetic of the plant is a bit all over the place. The one pictured is only a young plant, so it’s not quite at ‘alien’ stage.

I actually love its’ weirdness and even though it doesn’t have any real leaves, it still feels lush and is the perfect fit for a lush, tropical rainforest look.

In all honesty, I’ve been in love with Rhipsalis for a while, but this is the first one I’ve bought home and I plan on bringing home a few more!

Why? Firstly, I think they are a fantastic indoor plant that have really small roots, meaning I can keep them in my smaller planters. Secondly, although Rhipsalis belong to the cacti genus, they don’t really behave like a typical cactus. Funnily enough they hate full sun, and much prefer a warm, shady spot, with a little moisture around them. In their natural habitat, you would find them in the tree canopy, so I find growing them inside, in a pot with sphagnum moss, in a position which they can ultimately hang down the sides, is perfect.

Bright, indirect light is perfect for them- imagine the dappled shade that a rainforest canopy would provide. I find that like most indoor plants, they don’t like to be over watered, so just give them one big drink, drain and then let them dry out. I water mine about once a week in summer, to once a month in winter as this is when Bits’n’Pieces are basically dormant, so it is best to slow down your watering at this time, especially if your house gets really cold.

If your houseplant collection needs a new kooky addition, then this is definitely the plant for you.

Monstera adansonii

Monstera adansonii

and

Monstera adansonii ‘Monkey Mask’

Both of these adansonii’s have dark green leaves that have small holes inside the leaf, so they literally look like a piece of Swiss cheese.

The original adansonii has a very trailing habit and looks fantastic hanging down off a shelf, or in a hanging basket. It can also climb, but given its soft stems, it is often used as a trailing plant.

Monkey Mask seems to be more compact and bulkier than his step brother. I have found he seems to want to fill the pot first, and then have a little bit of a trail. His trail doesn’t go as far as the original adansonii and I find the leaves are fatter too.

The differences are hard to notice, unless both plants are side by side, but they are both great indoor options and have similar requirements.

Like most monsteras, these guys love a free draining potting mix. Some people even suggest adding some chunky bark to help keep the soil aerated. I also like to add a layer of sphagnum Moss on top of my pots to help keep humidity levels up.

Monsteras are semi epiphytic, meaning they hate being drowned, or sitting in a pot with wet feet. One big drink and dry out is how I water mine.

I think a regular liquid fertiliser is best for these plants and just a little and often seems to be the key. I like to give mine a good misting about once a fortnight with Triple Boost Liquid Fertiliser. If we have a dry summer, or if the house is closed up during winter and the air is really dry, I mist the leaves every couple of days to help with humidity.

I have found these guys love bright, indirect light, so placement right near a window is best, but not in direct sunlight. These guys absolutely hate being left in the dark and I have found that they will tell you very quickly if they don’t like a spot. I took one home and in about two days it went from healthy plant to yellow leaves and drooping. I moved it to a brighter position and boom, within a week it was like a new plant.

Adansonii’s could easily find a home in your home, so why not add one to your indoor plant collection?

Ficus elastica

Sometimes when a plant is so popular you seem to forget about its’ older brothers and sisters, the ones that have been around longer and proven their worth time and time again, but because their baby brother is the ‘new kid on the block’ they get forgetten!

This is exactly what happen to the Ficus elastica, the older brother to Ficus Fiddleleaf!

Ficus elastica, is in my eyes, a brilliant indoor plant and nowhere near as temperamental as the fiddle leaf. It’s one that was already showing its worth when house plants were cool in the 70’s.

Like all ficus, these bad boys are grown to make a statement and the huge, glossy leaves make this plant look fake, or too perfect.

Like the fiddle leaf, they can grow large and impressive in a pot and unless you have acreage, never plant them in a garden.

The ficus is impressive for many reasons. Firstly, the leaves are so big and glossy and although this may highlight the dust sitting on them, they’re still stunning to look at.

Secondly, I love the way the lead unfurls and interestingly, the leaves develop inside a sheath or meristem. I have found it is usually a brighter colour, than the existing leaf and grows larger as the new leaf develops. When the leaf is finally mature, it unfolds and that sheath drops off the plant.

Thirdly, they look impressive even as a small, young plant. It’s the type of plant you know will grow bigger and older and do great things.

Fourthly, it comes in a range of colours that suit any household. Currently, we have Burgundy and Ruby. Burgundy has such a deep red leaf it almost black and Ruby is a mix of pinks, whites and greens.

Ficus elastica is quite an easy plant to care for and can grow well in low light, or well lit situations. The worst you can do is give it too much water. Also, sudden changes in temperature can make them cranky, but they don’t take long to bounce back.

As this is quite a large growing tree, once it reaches your desired height, it’s a good idea to start trimming, otherwise you’ll end up living in a tree house! I find trimming the side branches off helps keep it neat and dense.

These guys also love a good quality potting mix and a fertilise with a complete, organic slow release fertiliser about every three months and I liquid fertilise once a fortnight. To keep the leaves shiny, I tend to use a Petroleum Oil based product. I spray the leaves and then wipe it off with a cloth. Spider mites and scale can also be a problem, but the Petroleum Oil based insecticides, or neem oil work really well in combatting this.

I am really in love with the ficus at the moment and can’t wait to get some more going at home.

Aeschynanthus marmoratus

Aeschynanthus marmoratus.

This amazingly gorgeous trailing plant is up there in my top ten foliage plants. It’s not out there, it’s subtly sexy and I think that’s why I love it so much.

Aeschynanthus marmoratus had a dark green oval shaped leaf, with these amazing veins of maroon. What’s even better is the bottom of the leaf is slightly cooler than the top. It’s like it was made to hang in a basket.

The foliage really is stunning, but it also flowers with the kookiest green tubes!

Seriously, how could you not want this plant?

I found that at home this plant survived well on basically no care or attention from me! It loved a well lit area, with lots of air flow. What astounded me (and shouldn’t have) was that it tripled in size the moment I started caring for it. I repotted it in some excellent quality potting mix, gave it some fertiliser, watered it regularly and boom, my baby suddenly took off. So, although it might not like to be over-loved, it definitely appreciates some regular care and attention.

These plants also love the humidity and can handle a little bit of heat ... so you know that window that gets actual morning sun directly, this guy is the perfect plant for that area. Remember to not over water him though, as he hates wet feet.

Mine has got a great trailing habit and it’s in a hanging basket and hangs down a good 50-60cm and is about 60cm wide.

I am honestly so in love with this baby and excited to share him with you finally ..

Even better is that Aeschynanthus in general are on the non toxic to animals list, so are perfect for those that own animals that like to destroy their plants ...

I am definitely a foliage girl and this one is almost as high on my list as Caladiums, so call into Trevallan today and see my new favourite indoor plant!

Monstera siltepecana

Monstera Siltepecana.

This plant belongs to the fascinating genus monstera. This genus is rather cool, as while there is already around 50 different known species, they believe that there are many more in the wild we have yet to identify.

Monstera Siltepecana young leaves

Which also means there could be 100’s of plants we need to add to our must have list!

Monstera Siltepecana is one of the 50 identified and lucky for you, is stocked at Trevallan. It has beautiful green leaves, with silver patches and prominent veins. It will climb if given the chance, but as its’ branches are really soft, it also works wonderfully as a trailing plant.

In the past, Monstera Siltepecana have been a little hard to grow, but with the correct knowledge, you’ll have a plant the envy of all your friends. Monstera Siltepecana, like most monsteras, like a free draining potting mix and I’d even suggest adding some chunky bark to help keep soil aerated. I also like to add a layer of sphagnum Moss on top to help keep humidity levels up, as Monsteras are semi epiphytic, meaning they love humidity, but hate being drowned.

Here’s the trick to watering a lot of indoor plants .... Water your plant whenever the soil is turning from being slightly moist to dry. Do not wait until the topsoil is completely dry, the soil should stay slightly moist. This is why I like to use sphagnum Moss on top, as it keeps the topsoil damp for a bit longer and it’s easy to tell when it needs a water.

I think a regular liquid fertilise is best for these plants. I like to give mine a good misting about once a fortnight with Triple Boost and if we have a dry summer, I mist the leaves every couple of days to help with humidity.

Monstera siltepecana older leaves

I have found these guys love bright, indirect light, so placement right near a window is perfect. Not in direct sunlight, just off to the side, but remember that guys hate being left in the dark!

Now here’s where the magic of these plants lies.... the younger leaves are completely different to the mature leaf. Believe it or not, the Mature Monstera siltepecana has huge leaves with holes close to the midrib, but it will only produce these leaves if allowed to climb. It can take up to three years in ideal conditions for your leaves to show signs of mature leaves forming.

Monstera siltepecana are a truly magical plant and one that I think you could have a few of in your indoor plant collection!

Zamioculcas zamiifolia

Zamioculcas zamiifolia

The sign for this guy at Trevallan Lifestyle Centre reads ‘No care, no fuss house plant’.

He can grow in any light situation, from the corridorof my sister’s office, which receives no natural light, to my bedroom bedside table which has light all day long. Whatever the light situation, this guy handles it with aplomb.

You don’t even have to worry about shining his leaves - he does it himself. His leaf is naturally thick, dark green and exceptionally glossy and shiny and he looks lush and tropical all the time.

Don't worry about water restrictions with this guy as he doesn't like a lot. A good drink every few weeks and he will repay you by continuing to look awesome. Don't worry if you are a bit like Boss Lady and tend to over love your plants, he can handle that too (he just doesn't like continually sitting in water).

It actually grows from these potato like tubers that store water, so even if by some ungodly chance you think you've killed your Zanzibar gem through lack of water, when the rains come it will reshoot!

This guy is amazing and the best house mate you will ever find.

He has a sexy brother called ‘Jungle Warrior’, who has new, green growth that turns black as it gets older and is just as fabulous as its older brother, but a little sexier. Additionally, recently a new baby was born to this family ....Zenzi is as a cute as a baby brother should be. He looks very similar to his older brother, with lush, dark green foliage, yet his leaves form closer together up the stem, making it seem more compact and thicker looking.

Honestly if you get one house plant in your lifetime, buy one of the Zamioculcas zamiifolia brothers. You’ll never regret having this kind of family in your house!

Watermelon Peperomia

Peperomia argyreia, or, the watermelon peperomia !

Just so we all understand, the watermelon peperomia is no relation at all to watermelons and just because it’s safe for cats and dogs, does not mean we should try it to see if it tastes like watermelon!

The common name occurs because, as you can see, the plant leaves look like a watermelon skin. Peperomia argyreia usually only grow to about 20cms high and about 40cms wide. The have lush deep green leaves that are slightly fleshy and have silver curved stripes, sitting atop red stems. I find that in the right light the leaves sparkle. Also, tiny green flower spikes appear in summer.

This plant is a great wow factor plant once it grows into its shape. Perfect for coffee tables, where you can switch off the TV and just gaze lovingly at its leaves and like all really cool plants, it has gained the gained the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.

This plant requires very little care and attention and any problems with it usually occur due to excessive love/overwatering! In fact, watermelon peperomia is the poster child for KEEP IT SIMPLE - lots of light, no overwatering and no cold conditions (including air conditioning on Arctic temperatures).

It doesn’t need a lot of water, at the moment mine gets a good soak once a week and as the weather cools off, I’ll try to push it out to once a fortnight as my house is very cold in winter and plants don’t dry out as much. Never let them sit in water and always check your soil first, as your indoor conditions my be different to mine....

How do you check your soil for moisture? Easy, simply stick your finger in it, if it’s dry, water, if it’s wet, leave another day! Very technical I know! Another great way is to feel the weight of the pot. If you pick it up and it’s really light, the plant needs a drink. This is a good way to tell dampness with potting mixes that rely heavily on peat or coir.

I have found Peperomia argyreia hate dark spots, they prefer lots of light, but not direct sunlight. They are slow growing and don’t like to be over potted, I only ever pot up to next size pot and only when the original plant is very pot bound.

They do love a bit of humidity, so you can either spray the leaves once a week, or you can soak the entire plant in a bucket for a few seconds so soil and foliage gets wet, but only do this in the warmer months.

I mix a little liquid fertiliser into my spray bottle, so I’m liquid fertilising at same time or if I’m soaking I add a little bit of liquid fertiliser to my soak bucket. I also fertilise all my indoor plants at the turn of every season with Organic Link, a certified organic slow release fertiliser.

Peperomias are usually very easy to care for, but I have found Peperomia argyreia can be a little sensitive, because it’s hard to get the watering and light conditions perfect for them, keep I mind though that they hate to be over loved.

If you have a bright spot in your home and you are a forgetful waterer, than maybe this is the plant for you

******

The photo is of mine from last week - in the past, I have struggled with these guys and may have killed a few, but this spot is perfect for them. Morning sun comes in the window, but no actual sun hits the leaves, so it’s really bright and warm. It’s in a spot I constantly look at and think ‘I must water that’, but never do, so the plant dries out! Thirdly, you can see that the pot sits just above the rim of my planter. Normally I hate this look, but in this instance it’s perfect as it’s never sitting in water as the pot isn’t sitting all the way to base of planter.